Denali Soundbomb Horn Troubleshooting

Denali Soundbomb Horn Troubleshooting

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1urCP3HafpyKbzOdC5jZGjcdcIySAOPWbEs1hywcHBOA/edit

Basic Horn Troubleshooting (with DNL.ELC.10000)

7/20/21-CA

Introduction

These instructions will guide you through checking both sides of the Plug n Play kit. This kit breaks down into 2 circuits, “supply” or “battery” circuit and “trigger” or “switch” circuit.

Battery Circuit

Measure voltage at the battery (running or not will not affect this step, unless the voltage is well less than 12v)
Disconnect the positive from the compressor body
Depress the horn button with the ignition on
Be sure to note the relay is clicking (if not, replace)
Measure the voltage at the positive you just removed from the horn

If there is a discrepancy between the readings, there is likely a damaged crimp or wire in the circuit between the battery and horn (through the relay).

Above are common locations for damaged crimps.

Switch Circuit

The switch circuit should be checked 1, if the relay does not click 2, relay clicks but voltage does not travel through the supply circuit to the horn when the button is pressed.

Verify the leads are wired correctly. This means 12v to lead “1”, and ground to lead “2”. Ground can be from the OEM leads, a chassis ground, or back to the negative battery terminal. Note, if the customer hints to the ground being a chassis ground, they can run a test wire from this lead to the negative battery terminal as insurance since chassis grounds are the most likely to be dirty, corroded, or stressed.
Check for continuity in the positive wire between lead “1” and the relay socket “3”. We’ve seen broken wires, and poor crimps here as well.
If continuity is present in the switch circuit, but the relay does not click, replace relay

If the horns are not sounding off with the powerful, usual dual tone, a couple/few of things could be going on... These horns do need the full 20 amps when the horn first spools up. If its not getting the full 20 amps, it would not sound correct. Check the ground connection first, it may need to be relocated or cleaned to bare metal...that is the usual offender. If the horn used to work just fine, something has corroded and needs cleaning. Also check the horn trumpets are free of occlusions. Often, road debris or spider webs will cause an airflow issue. If so, invert the horn and blow some low pressure, low volume air into the trumpet opening to clear any FOD. You would need to use something like this to power the horn; https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electronics/horns-and-horn-mounts/horn-wiring/plug-n-play-wiring-kit-for-stebel-compact-nautilus-airhorns/ Here are the install notes for reference; http://d1l4i7f87txqmq.cloudfront.net/Installation%20Instructions/Denali/Soundbomb/Instructions_DNL.ELC.10000_rev00.pdf Are the electrical connections on horn reversed? IE: Ground wire to horn (+) and 12V+ wire to horn (-). Is horn/compressor positioned within 25 degrees of vertical?

-Something I share with the cool kids with knobby tires on their bikes...if your bike is going to see mud or harsh environments, you can take a black nylon stocking and wrap it over the horn trumpets to keep FOD out. (foreign objects or debris)

Horn sounds but is weak or constricted sounding

Is the horn properly installed using a fused and relayed circuit powered directly from that battery/fuse block that can support 20 Amps electrical load?

If not, install correct horn wiring harness.

Is the horn ground wire correctly connected to an appropriate grounding point on the bike?

Check for foreign object like road debris or spider webs inside of the trumpets if the sound has changed or is not as loud.
If not, relocate horn ground wire if necessary. (The battery (-) or a bolt on the engine are the best locations if unsure)

Are any of the electrical connections loose, dirty, and/or corroded?

Clean and reattach connections as necessary.

Are the electrical connections on horn reversed? IE: Ground wire to horn (+) and 12V+ wire to horn (-).

Correct if necessary.

Is horn/compressor positioned within 25 degrees of vertical?

If not, reposition. If no improvement, the horn compressor has likely worn out and needs to be replaced. (non-warranty as this note is in the manual)
Invert horn, blow low pressure, low volume air into the trumpets to clear any FOD

No sound from horn

Is the horn properly installed using a fused and relayed circuit powered directly from that battery/fuse block that can support 20 Amps electrical load?

If not, install the correct horn wiring harness.

Is the horn ground wire correctly connected to an appropriate grounding point on the bike?

If not, relocate horn ground wire if necessary. (The battery (-) or a bolt on the engine are the best locations if unsure)Check for loose, dirty, and/or corroded electrical connections. Clean and reattach connections as necessary.

Are any of the electrical connections loose, dirty, and/or corroded?

Clean and reattach connections as necessary.

Are the electrical connections on horn reversed? IE: Ground wire to horn (+) and 12V+ wire to horn (-).

Correct if necessary.

Is the relay on the horn wiring harness is correctly installed and "clicking" when the horn button is pressed?

If not, review how horn is wired and or replace relay.TT-00003

Has the fuse on the horn wiring harness failed?

Replace fuse if necessary or if unsure.

Is horn/compressor positioned within 25 degrees of vertical?

If not, reposition. If no improvement, the horn compressor has likely worn out and needs to be replaced. (not covered under warranty as this note is in the manual)

If still no sound, test horn by applying 12V directly to (+) connection on horn while making sure the horn (-) connection is correctly grounded.

Also make sure the air supply hose is connected and is serviceable on the split version.

If no sound after testing with 12v direct to horn, replace horn.

Additional information for the SoundBomb Mini Electromagnetic Low Tone Motorcycle Horn;

IF the troubled horn is TT-SB.10200.B (soundbomb mini), it may still need DNL.ELC.10000 orTT-00013.10000 to get adequate power for proper operation
The install notes only call for 9 nm of torque for mounting onto the supplied thin aluminum brackets. Those are to be used for proper sound quality.
When the horns are over tightened, they can not vibrate and sound off.
Loosen the bolt tightened on during the customer installation to see if that allows proper operation/sound. (part C on the install notes, M6 Nut DIN 6927)
KTM, BMW > step 3.2 = This wiring configuration will leave the OEM horn connected to your vehicles electrical system, both the SoundBomb Horn and OEM horn will emit sound. Step One: Cut the Male Spade Terminals off the ends of the Red and Blue wires on the DENALI Horn Harness and replace them with the Posi-Tap Connectors (b). Note: If you need to shorten the DENALI Horn Harness simply cut the Red and Blue Wires to the desired length before attaching the Posi-Tap Connectors (b). Step Two: Identify which wire on the OEM harness is positive (+) and which wire is negative (-). Then use the Posi-Tap Connectors (b) to tap the DENALI Horn Wiring Harness to the OEM harness. The Red Wire should be tapped to the OEM positive (+) wire, the Blue Wire should be tapped to the OEM negative (-) wire.
SoundBomb Compact & Split = 520Hz Low Tone/ 660 Hz High Tone
SoundBomb Mini = 400Hz
Split horn hose is 42 inches. Comes in pre-cut lengths, not on a spool to provide an ability to pull off a customer requested length.
SB Split Air Hose DetailsFor Use With: Air, Water

Hardness Rating:SoftHardness: Durometer 70AClarity: OpaqueMaterial: PVC PlasticID: 1/4"

OD: 3/8"

Wall Thickness: 1/16"

Flexibility: Very Flexible

Bend Radius: 1 3/4"

Temperature Range: -10° to 170° F

Maximum Pressure: 45 psi @ 72° F

Maximum Vacuum: Not Rated

Compatible Tube Fittings: Barbed

For Use With Metering Pumps: No

Sterilize With: Gas, Steam (Autoclaving)

Color: Black

RoHS: Compliant