Customizing Wire Harnesses
*do not copy paste this to customers, there is some copy in here about the sprig parts and changes to address.
- The switch wiring, 3 position or single intensity, will also most likely need to be lengthened to reach inside of the truck cab when using the Premium or Standard harness. All three wires in the switch cable will need to be lengthened using matching wire type and 18 AWG. Six Posi-connects can be used for easier connections during that process. I've let the team know some switch extensions would be great.
- Often the Battery Terminal rings on the harness will need to be changed to fit the larger vehicle battery posts or cut off entirely to be used in a power hub. If the offset distance is too short between the positive and negative terminal rings, slicing the black plastic over-sheath will pay out more length. You may still want to lengthen/shorten these 2 wires to the desired length if you are needing to change connectors anyway.
- Only the Premium and Standard Single Intensity Wiring Harness can integrate the switch eliminator. The Automotive DNL.WHS.12000 harness has its unique switch integrated into the construction of the harness that is not "Hot-Swappable" to allow the installation of the switch eliminator. This kit has an exposed, spade connector x3 switch, in a non-weather proof housing that is easily replaced if the customer wants to customize their switch for something of their liking. This kit switch needs to have a 20.5 mm hole drilled and indexing notch cut for installation in the dash panel. This is not a switch that can be bar mounted. If the customer has installed this switch already in their dash, and if the switch goes bad, we have no part numbered replacement to send out. It would hopefully be a grab from spare parts stash the WH has, OR if there are no replacements to send out, we would need to warranty exchange the entire harness. Hopefully this motivates us to resolve this lack of replacement for the exact switch. We could always send out our Denali single intensity switch to restore functionality, but if the customer has already drilled a hole for the original switch kit, the DNL.WHS.11100 is not an acceptable replacement.
- All of the driving light wire harnesses (not to be confused with DRL wiring) Denali sells can be changed to dual intensity by swapping out the original relay for the Data-Dim.
- If you find a need to lengthen the pod wiring, it is best practice to use to manufactured light extension cables, DNL.WHS.11500.
The trigger wires that need to reach the stock horn may be too short to reach the location of the stock, OEM horn if the horn is not located on the same side of the vehicle as the battery is located.
There are a couple of ways to mitigate this.
- You can identify the wires coming off of the stock horn, and lets say those wires are white with a red stripe and white with a black stripe. There will be no other devises using wires with that shared wire color scheme. Knowing this, you can now follow the wiring loom to a location that is within reach or more accessible, then peer inside that loom to relocate the white wires with the red and black stripes, also called traces.
- Sometimes, it may make more sense or be easier to lengthen the horn power harness wires to reach that intended trigger wire spot you have in mind if you plan on keeping the stock horn in use at the same time. (see 3.2 of the horn wiring install notes)
To install trailer lighting on your DENALI CANsmart going to need CANsmart with all 4 circuits free and to create a harness. You can use the below connectors to connect to the CANsmart to start your harness. You will need 4 of them for your application. Connector Pigtail - MT Series 3-Pin, Male In the Accessory Manager, you will need to set the Red Circuit to Turn Signal Left, the Blue Circuit to Turn Signal Right, the Yellow Circuit to Brake, and the White Circuit to Accessory. You will then have to follow the below diagram for mating the leads from the CANsmart to your trailer harness. You will only be using the signal wire(Red) coming out of the MT Series 3-Pin Connectors for the turn signals and brake. For the running light, you will connect the ground wire(Black) from the MT Series 3-Pin Connector to the trailer's ground wire as well as the signal wire(Red).I found this helpful video on Youtube which can give you more of a visual aid of the process.https://youtu.be/rG7Ao4I3YyI